The two most important factors affecting puppy survival between birth and two weeks of age are nutrition and temperature.

Newborn puppies cannot shiver.  They are dependent upon the temperature in the immediate area around them.  Temperatures should be maintained in the 90-95 degree Farenheit, with relatively high humidity.  In order to accomplish this, heat lamps are often needed – except in the middle of summer.  Enough room should be available in the immediate puppy area so the puppies can ‘self regulate’ their temperature by changing the distance they keep themselves from the heat source.  They must be able to be close enough to a heat source to get warmth, AND at the same time be able to move away from the heat should it become too warm.

Nutrition provides all the energy for these puppies.  Colostrum is the first breast milk from the mother.  It is imperative that the puppies get a good bellyful of colostrums.  Colostrum contains a high concentration of antibodies which are important in protecting the puppy from viral infections, prior to the pup being able to respond to immunizations.  Puppies can only absorb colostrums from their gut in the first 24 hours of life.  Therefore, you need to make sure that each pup gets a good drink from the mother in the first day of their life.

Feeding puppies is the greatest drain on the mother dog.  Her groceries need to be increased in both quantity and quality.  Ideally, she should be on a food greater than 26% protein and 15 % fat.  Ideally, I like to see a 30/20 ratio.

Weaning
Puppies should be weaned at 5 weeks of age.  They have no need for milk at that age, and will only draw down the condition of the mother unnecessarily.  The best way to wean puppies is to start as early as 3 weeks of age, and make a gruel of puppy chow – using warm WATER (not cow’s milk), and offer it to them in a low pie tin.  This will begin to take the drain/strain off the mother providing all the nutrition to the pups and will make it easier on her to dry up and maintain condition.  At 5 weeks of age, take the pups away from the mother completely, and do not let them back on her.

The best way to ‘dry up’ the mother is the following:  the first day you take the pups away, do not give the mother ANY water for the first 24 hours, AND cut her groceries in HALF – and thereafter (keep her food at ½ of what she had been getting).  Day 2, give her 50% (1/2) of what she had been getting for water.  Day 3, give her 75% (3/4) of what she had been getting for water.  Day 4, let her go back to full water.

Worming
Pyrantel Pamoate – at 4 and 6 weeks of age;  this comes in two strengths, and you need to make sure of the doseage.  This is given orally.

Drontal Plus – at 5 weeks of age – this is a tablet given orally

Albon (Sulfadimethoxine) – as needed for cocidia provided there is microscopic evidence of such an ‘infection’

Immunizations
The purpose of immunizations is to stimulate the immune system to produce antibodies.  Remember, that colostrums contains antibodies, and provided the mother was immunized shortly before being bred, should provide enough antibodies for the puppy until at least 8 weeks of age.  Therefore, theoretically, there is no need to begin immunizing puppies until they are 8 weeks old.  In reality though there is a possibility that the passive immunity from the mother may not have been sufficient, and may wear off before 8 weeks of age.  The biggest risk to the young puppy is parvo virus infection.  Therefore, I recommend the following immunization schedule:

6 weeks of age – Parvo immunization – Fort Dodge KF-11 product

8 weeks of age -  Distemper, Parvo combination (name brand product)

10 weeks of age – Parvo immunization – Fort Dodge KF – 11 product

12 weeks of age – Distemper, Parvo combination

16 weeks of age – Distemper, Parvo combination, Rabies